Kolhapuri Chappals losing their shine amid labour shortages, changing trends

By Amrit Prakash
Kolhapur (Maharashtra) [India], November 1 (ANI): In the bustling Chhatrapati Shivaji Market of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, the traditional charm of Kolhapuri chappals is at risk as the industry faces mounting challenges.
Established over three generations, shop owners and artisans are grappling with labour shortages, rising costs, and a shift in consumer preferences that threaten the future of this iconic craft.
Kolhapuri chappals are traditional handmade sandals that originate from the city of Kolhapur. They are renowned for their unique craftsmanship, durability, and cultural significance.

Made from high-quality leather, these chappals are crafted using traditional techniques passed down through generations. Each pair can take several days to complete, showcasing intricate designs often inspired by local art
Kolhapuri chappals are more than just footwear; they are a blend of tradition, artistry, and economic empowerment. Their enduring appeal highlights the importance of preserving cultural heritage in a rapidly changing world.

Sanjay Prahlad Malekar, a long-time shop owner, reflects on the changing dynamics of the market.
"This is our third generation involved in the business of Kolhapuri chappals. Our grandfather used to sit at this shop, followed by my father, and now we have been in this business for 70-80 years. However, the business is just okay. There hasn't been much progress. Customers who come to buy Kolhapuri chappals often bargain, asking for a product worth a thousand rupees for just 200. We want to provide original chappals, but customers prefer cheaper options. Outside, duplicate Kolhapuri chappals are available for 200-300 rupees, and people mistakenly believe that's their actual value, unaware of the true worth of authentic Kolhapuri chappals. This is one reason our business is not progressing," he told ANI.
He further added, "When we approach the government for assistance, our concerns are not heard. Applying for loans to expand our business is also not an easy process. A unique aspect of Kolhapuri chappals is that they have maintained the same design for nearly 100 years, which is typically traditional. Unlike companies that change designs weekly, this classic design remains, but it looks superior on your feet, suitable for weddings or any occasion, giving a stylish appearance."
Nitin Bamane, another shop owner, notes the traditional aspect of the market while talking to ANI, "This market for chappals is quite traditional, reminiscent of the times of Sahuji Maharaj. We are relatively new here, but two generations of our family have already been involved in this trade. While we are newcomers, there was once a huge craze for Kolhapuri chappals, and it still exists. However, the younger generation is not entering this field because these chappals are handmade and require sitting for about 12 hours to create them, which they are not willing to do.
Adding about the qualities and type of Kolhapuri, he said, "there are two types of Kolhapuri leather; one is processed, and the other is handmade. The handmade leather is significantly more expensive, costing around a thousand rupees or more, while the processed leather is priced around 400-500 rupees. However, the leather that is handmade is the true Kolhapuri. It has its benefits when worn, and those who recognize it appreciate its value."
Multiple artisans like Umaji Gaikwad, who have dedicated 40 years to crafting chappals, emphasize the meticulous process involved.
"I have been making Kolhapuri chappals for 40 years, starting when I was 25. Three generations of my family have been involved in this work--my grandfather did it, my father did it, and now I am doing it. The Kolhapuri chappal you hold goes through our hands 123 times during its making; only the stitching is done outside, while we handle all other processes ourselves. The fancy chappals you mention last at most six months, but these Kolhapuri chappals can last up to three years. A lot of hard work goes into creating them," Gaikwad told ANI.

A wholesaler, Abhijit Satpute highlights the broader issues facing the industry, telling ANI, "We are facing problems with material quality, export challenges, and a shrinking pool of skilled labour. The government has imposed a tax, further squeezing our margins while costs continue to rise. Buyers are unwilling to pay the necessary prices."
He further added, "Currently, the Kolhapuri chappal market boasts around 150 dedicated shops, with estimates rising to 2,000 when including surrounding stores. Yet, exports remain problematic, as international clients demand pristine materials free of imperfections, leading to returns and increased logistical challenges".
Interestingly, despite their traditional roots, Kolhapuri chappals have gained international popularity and are often worn by celebrities, adding to their prestige.
Despite various government schemes aimed at supporting local businesses, many initiatives fail to reach those who need them most, often arriving too late. Industry stakeholders call for greater training opportunities to uplift the artisan community and ensure the survival of Kolhapuri chappals as a celebrated tradition.
As the market navigates these hurdles, the future of Kolhapuri chappals hangs in the balance, with a pressing need for renewed interest and investment in this time-honoured craft. The survival of this cultural emblem not only supports local economies but also preserves a unique aspect of Indian heritage that has stood the test of time. (ANI)